Balma
La Balma del Messere or Grotta dei Saraceni: a hidden gem in the mountains
If you like adventure and are passionate about history, you can't miss the Balma del Messere or Grotta dei Saraceni, located at the foot of a rocky wall in front of the hamlet of Cantarana in the municipality of Ormea. This natural cave is one of the most beautiful examples of walled cavities in the entire Alpine arc.
Literature and legend
The Balma del Messere is also known as the Grotta dei Saraceni, as tradition dates the fortification back to the period of the Saracens. Moreover, some historians have linked the name Balma del Messere to the legendary story of Aleramo del Monferrato and Adelasia, daughter of Otto I, who may have used it as a refuge during their escape from Emperor Otto's rage. Furthermore, it is said that the English poet Byron visited the cavern during his travels in Italy and engraved two verses on a stone, unfortunately lost over time.
History
The Tanaro valley, where the Balma del Messere is located, was the scene of Saracen raids in the 10th century. Oral tradition, remains of constructions of the time, and words still present in the Ormea dialect are evidence of this fact. It is thought that the Saracens arrived in the valley from the Nava hill, coming from Liguria, or from the Roia valley, through the Signori hill. In the context of the valley, the Balma del Messere became a strategic location, as it was a good starting point for raids on the rich Piedmontese plain. The Saracens then built a fortified camp (frassineto) using a natural cave, precisely the one we now know as the Balma del Messere. Among other evidence from the time, we can mention the cylindrical tower of the castle of Ormea, now disappeared but visible in the Theatrum Statuum Sabaudiae print of the 17th century, the foundations of the tower of Barchi, and the cylindrical tower next to the settlement of Bagnasco.
The facade
The Balma del Messere is characterized by a wall that closes the large cave. It is made of local stones held together by a very compact mortar. The regularity of the workmanship is remarkable, a sign of a rather advanced construction technique.
If you want to discover this hidden gem in the mountains, I recommend taking a walk along the trail that starts from the hamlet of Cantarana. The path is marked and easy to walk, but I recommend paying attention to the presence of slippery stones and being careful not to get too close to the edge of the cliff. Once you reach the cave, you will be struck by the beauty of the masonry and the wonder of the landscape that opens before your eyes. The Balma del Messere is an ideal destination for a day trip or a family excursion, but also for a solo or a friends' experience.
History and legend merge in a single place, creating a unique and unforgettable experience. I recommend bringing a camera with you to capture the most beautiful moments of your visit to the Balma del Messere. However, do not forget to respect the environment and not to damage the structure, which is a valuable historical and cultural heritage for the Ormea area and for the whole Italy.
